Our Latest Birdwatching Adventure — Atlantic Forest and Pantanal, Brazil
- Alejandro Pinto
- Sep 6
- 12 min read
Updated: Sep 7
At Tanager Photo Tours, we are guided by two principles: enjoy remarkable birds and wildlife in the field and the art of capturing them in images that tell their stories. Our latest journey took places on two of Brazil’s most iconic biomes —the Atlantic Forest and the Pantanal— and we delivered a total of 464 bird species and 23 other animals, including icons of of wildlife such as Jaguar, Lowlands Tapir, Yellow Anaconda among many others.
THE ATLANTIC FOREST
Our initial leg of the trip carried us into the Atlantic Forest (Mata Atlântica), a biogeographic corridor extending along Brazil’s eastern coast. The Brazilian Atlantic Forest is a remarkable and endangered biome with extensions into parts of Paraguay and Argentina. Today, only a fraction remains, fragmented into dense remnants and protected reserves, yet it remains one of the world’s most diverse and ecologically important ecosystems with over 200 endemic bird species.
Starting in Legado das Aguas, to the south of São Paulo. As soon as we left the car in the entrance gate to fill up some documentation we spotted a group of 3-4 Buff-tufted Ear Marmoset - is this the best way to start a trip? - followed by our first flock! Red-necked Tanager, Lesser Woodcreeper, Eared Pygmy Tyrant, Buff-fronted Foliage Gleaner, Rufous-headed Tanager among others! Driving slowly inside the reserve we just kept adding species to our list and took us over 2h to drive 10 miles. Over 50 species for a couple of hours in the afternoon and finishing with a pair of Tropical Screech- Owl roosting in the parking lot , what a way to start a trip in the Atlantic forest!
Day 2. Legado das Aguas
We started our morning by walking a single track loop inside the forest, we were not expecting a ton of birds - not easy birding inside the tall forest - but, it was totally opposite! We enjoyed the mix flocks in there loaded with wood creepers, foliage gleaners and flycatchers, it was definitely above expectations. One of the first birds was the endemic Star-throated Antwren followed by the very range restricted Salvadori’s Antwren, we didn’t wait much til the Plain-winged Woodcreeper and the Lesser Woodcreeper showed off! At least 5 species of foliage gleaners: Black-capped, Buff-fronted, White-eyed, Ochre-breasted and White-collared. Later in the morning the Black-cheeked Gnateater, the incredible beauty Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper and a Saw-billed Hermit catching insect quite close to us!
The afternoon was as busy! We made a short stop in a Bat Falcon hunting perch and then moved back inside the forest, we saw another mix which included couple of new birds: Pin-tailed Manakin and the Wing-barred Piprites! Also a quick view of the Rufous-capped Spinetail, but the moment of the afternoon was the Black and White Hawk Eagle soaring right above us! We ended the morning with a glimpse of the Slaty Bristlefront.
After dinner we decided to take one more short outing. It started very slowly as nobody was singing; shall we try another spot? Of course! We drove 5 min and immediately heard at least 3 owl species, and got to see one, the Mottled Owl! Ok time to go back so we can sleep! , but nature had one more surprise for us, a beautiful Lowland Tapir walking along the road and eating, was right outside the car! What a way to end our second day in the field.
Day 3. Legado full day
Another incredible day loaded with birds! The mix flocks were very active and we still are adding birds to our list which is already over 120 birds! We started with the nice looking White-throated Woodcreeper and the Rufous-capped Motmot in the forest and the mix flocks had all the usuals Tanagers, Foliage-gleaners, wood creepers and Warblers. One of the best moments during the morning was watching 3 Black-headed Berryeaters feeding and chasing each other right above us in the forest. The second best was a Mantled Hawk perch in the distance during the lunch! In the afternoon we spotted the beautiful Ochre-rumped Antbird and a couple of Buff-bellied Puffbirds. We finished our day with several Spot-winged Wood-Quail!
During the last afternoon we also added the incredible Pin-tailed Manakin, a Black and White Hawk Eagle was seeing soaring above us and the endemic and hard to see Salvadori’s Antwren appears not only once but twice in the mix flocks!
Day 4. Cotingas day
We started early morning and drove out of Legado, our main target was the Hooded Berryeater - an amazing chunky black and yellow cotinga - despite hearing the bird several times we did not see any. We started to drive to another spot when a Sharpbill appeared perched in the open along the road, crazy time! We jumped out of the car and enjoy this bird for a while. After lunch we had a second chance for the Berryeater, but this time we were very fortunate and we got to see one, perched and singing for a short while. On the way back to our lodge we made a brief stop in a secondary area with the aim to find secondary growth birds, little by little they started to appear with some tanagers like Brazilian and Green-headed, and hummingbirds like Glittering-throated Emerald and Violet-crowned Woodnymph, but the best surprise was the Buff-throated Purpletuft who perched very low in a open tree!
Day 5. Espinheiro Negro
Easy birding morning at the well-known spot Espinheiro Negro. Here we enjoyed superb birds at the feeders: Red-breasted and Spot-billed Toucans, Green-headed and Red-necked Tanagers, Violet-crowned Woodnymph, Festive Coquette, and Scale-throated Hermit. During a short walk in the property forest, we had a glimpse of the Rufous Gnateater and the Greenish Schiffornis.
Day 6. Sitio Macuquinho
We visited a wetland area early in the morning; it was cold, but the sun and light were beautiful. We saw the critically endangered and very range-restricted Marsh Antwren (São Paulo) and also the Rufous-capped Antshrike. After breakfast we moved into the forest and got superb views of a pair of Brown Tinamous, the endemic White-browed Warbler, and four (!) Red-and-white Crake. Along the roads near the lodge we found two Antbirds: Bertoni’s and Dusky-tailed, and the beautiful White-barred Piculet. In the Macuquinho grounds we had an incredible moment with a Black Hawk-Eagle flying very low and eventually perching near us. Also several species of Tanagers and Hummingbirds: Brassy-breasted Tanager, Golden-winged Cacique, Sapphire-spangled Emerald, White-throated Hummingbird, and the beautiful Brazilian Ruby.
Our night depart was very productive; we spotted a male Long-trained Nightjar catching insects in flight overhead, eventually perching on the road and then flying off again. After this amazing show we heard the distinctive call of the Rusty-barred Owl, and we moved quickly closer to the area to spot one. This time it perched next to the road and we enjoyed it for a few seconds before it disappeared into the forest. Good night harvest.
Day 7.
Last morning in Macuquinho, we were targeting the remaining birds. Finally the Grey-hooded Attila appears! But the main surprise came later with a Giant Antshrike singing, and after a lot of work we got a view of the female foraging in the bamboo bush; despite the quick views, it was an incredible bird. The White-shouldered Fire-Eye and the endemic Half-collared Sparrow were also seen.
A short stop during our drive was extremely productive, giving us many new birds for the trip. We spotted White-eared Puffbirds and paused for them; right after we stopped a Campo Flicker and a Curl-crested Jay appeared, followed by a small mixed flock with many new birds, including Cinnamon Tanager, Orange-headed Tanager, Narrow-billed Woodcreeper, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, and others! We also spotted some Yellow-rumped Marshbirds, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, and others.
Day 8. Bellbirds!
Today we visited the renowned Serra do Mar state park and adjacent areas. After breakfast with a superb view at the Ninho da Cambacica lodge, we headed to the rural area for birding. As soon as we left the car we heard the Bare-throated Bellbird calls everywhere, and after less than two minutes we spotted a couple of them in the distance; soon after, a female perched very close to us — what a way to start the day! During the walk we also enjoyed superb views of the Black-capped Donacobius, the endemic Orange-eyed Thornbird, and Scaled Antbird. We heard the Bellbird again, this time very loud and close, and bingo — another juvenile male was singing from a high perch above us. After that we heard the call of the Rufous-capped Antthrush and, to our surprise, it walked very close and in front of us. We also added the Tufted Antshrike, who was singing near the beach area, and finally the Brown Booby.
In the afternoon we enjoyed the bird feeders at Ninho da Cambacica, which included superb views of: Sombre Hummingbird, Festive Coquette, Saw-billed Hermit, White-chinned Sapphire, Brazilian Tanager, DuBois Seedeater, Reddish Hermit, among many others. Just to end the day in the best way, a Black-banded Owl appeared before dinner.
Day 9. On the way to the Montiqueira
Last stop in the lowlands near Paraty to clear local targets. Early morning we saw the Chestnut-backed Antshrike and the Lemon-chested Greenlet, and after a couple more minutes we finally got the endemic Long-billed Wren. With few other targets, we started to drive toward Montiqueira, where Itatiaia National Park is located. During the drive, a Red-legged Seriema by the highway made us stop and pull over. A short stop in rice crops and wetlands along the way was great for adding other birds like Firewood Gatherer, Tawny-headed Swallow, White-rumped Monjita, Pantanal Snipe, and others. Once in Itatiaia in the late afternoon we saw a small group of Blue-winged Macaws and Diademed Tanager. A big surprise was spotting the hard-to-find Large-tailed Antshrike foraging on the hotel grounds — after working hard for this bird on several trips, it suddenly appeared!
To end the day, a pair of Tawny-browed Owls near our rooms at night — what a day!
Hooded Tanager and the endemic Gilt-edged Tanager were the last additions here; we found a flock of birds in a secondary area, moving very actively in a large group. Also the beautiful Brazilian Tanager and White-bearded Manakin were part of the flock.
Day 11. Agulhas Negras road
This road leads to the high mountains in Itatiaia National Park, and very good birds can be found here from bottom to top. Early morning we saw a couple of flocks with colorful tanagers like Diademed and Brassy-breasted, as well as the nicely colored Buff-throated and Bay-chested Warbling Finches. A nice pair of Robust Woodpeckers and the range-restricted White-browed and White-spotted Woodpeckers were seen in the morning. The highlight of the morning was spotting a lekking area of the endemic Green-crowned Plovercrest, with the males up close — truly amazing! We also added the Araucaria Tit-Spinetail and, high in the mountains, the endemic Itatiaia Spinetail. Although the Black and Gold Cotinga was heard, we couldn’t spot it, but we were very happy with the other beautiful species and the impressive landscapes of the mountains.
Day 12–13. Campos do Jordão
Our last stop in the Atlantic Forest, located in the Montiqueira mountain range, Campos do Jordão is a high-elevation town; the Araucaria forest and local conditions are home to some impressive birds. On our first morning we enjoyed mix flocks, and one of the best birds was the amazing Black-capped Piprites. We also enjoyed good views of the Scalloped Woodcreeper and were lucky enough to spot a lekking area of the endemic Green-crowned Plovercrest. The Buff-throated and Bay-chested Warbling Finches were part of the day.
On our last morning we focused on the beautifully magnificent Araucaria forest and spotted our main target very quickly: Vinaceous-breasted Parakeet, an endemic and outstanding bird.
Day 14-19 The Transpantaneira
THE PANTANAL
The Pantanal is the largest wetland area in the world, spanning portions of Brazil, Bolivia, and Paraguay. This vast, seasonally flooded landscape supports extraordinary wildlife.
Our first morning, we drove a few kilometers into the famous Transpantaneira road on the way to our lodge. During the drive we spotted over 50 bird species and began to add other animals: Red-legged Seriema, Greater Rhea, Peach-fronted Parakeets, Turquoise-fronted Parrots, Blue-and-Yellow Macaw, Jabiru, Plumbeous Ibis, Chaco Chachalaca, among many others.
Once we reached our lodge and entered the property, we kept having more fun with South American Coatis running everywhere, Yacare Caiman, and Capybaras. Our late afternoon departure to explore the area was amazing; we stayed near a lagoon with forest and spotted Undulated Tinamou, Bare-faced Curassow, Crane Hawk, Great rufous Woodcreeper, Orange-backed Troupial, and the amazing Red-throated Piping Guan, but also Red Brocket and Collared Pecari. Once it got dark the Pauraques started to sing, and we spotted an amazing Brazilian Tapir male, plus a female with a juvenile. A quick view of the Crab-eating Raccoon and a striking Hyacinth Macaw feeding from a palm tree at night right next to our rooms. We were having dinner when the manager called: there is a Giant Anteater in the backyard—boom! what a way to start our Pantanal adventure.
We started our drive toward the Cuiabá River at the end of the Transpantaneira road; along the way birds and wildlife are everywhere, and we enjoyed them with short stops. A couple of memorable moments were spotting a big Marsh Deer male in a wetland area and a Yellow Anaconda. But during lunch we enjoyed Blue-crowned Parakeets, Red-crested Cardinals, and several other species. Once we reached Cuiabá, we transferred to a boat, and on the way to our flotel (ferry boat hotel) we spotted our first Jaguar—welcome to the Pantanal.
The Cuiabá River and its tributaries two full days.
Our flotel is spectacular, with beautiful river views and sunsets. Early morning we left it for speed-boat rides, starting with several bird species including all the Kingfishers, Black-collared Hawk, Jabiru, herons, and egrets. We enjoyed a couple of Black-capped Donacobius and, bang—first jaguar sighting! We spotted a pregnant female; she was very relaxed on a tree, came down to the water to drink a few sips, and we enjoyed her for at least 20 minutes in a private moment before leaving the place.
We kept birding and enjoyed the full morning, spotting Orange-backed Troupial, Rufous Cacholote, Rusty-backed Spinetail, White-lored Spinetail, American Pygmy Kingfisher, and the beautiful Boat-billed Heron. In the afternoon we spotted one more jaguar walking along the riverbank, finally disappearing into the bushes.
Later in the afternoon we went to the Piquiri River, a clear-water tributary of the Cuiabá, to enjoy the Giant River Otter and the Capped Heron along with White-throated Piping Guan and a couple of beautiful Bare-faced Curassows on the riverbank.
During our second full day we continued our boat-based birding; this time we spotted White Woodpecker, Laughing Falcon, and several other species. Again we spotted a big male in a small channel of the Cuiabá; this time he was deep in the bushes, so we moved to a different area and tried calling a couple of bird species. We turned off the boat and waited; when this female Jaguar (Marcela, the same we spotted the day before) came silently from the bushes about 40 ft away, walked quietly into the water and swam back and forth, then climbed a tree, settled, and began grooming herself. Mind-blowing private moment with this Jaguar!
To end the day, we added the Black Skimmer, Pied Plovers, Large and Yellow-billed Terns, Green and Rufous Kingfisher, and, to close the day, Band-tailed and Nacunda Nighthawks.
During our last morning, we went to the Piquiri River—clearer water. The Giant River Otter was fishing actively, and from time to time, breathing out of the water. A smaller Neotropical river otter appeared upstream. We decided to make a short stop after hearing the Helmeted Manakin song, and we spotted a male jumping around forest berries; the female joined in as well, and several other birds emerged from the forest as well. We counted about 20 species, including Band-tailed Manakin, Rufous Casiornis, Blue-crowned Trogon, Amazonian Motmot, and Rufous-tailed Jacamar, among others. Later, a Collared Forest Falcon call alerted us; luck was on our side as it crossed the river right above us to perch on an exposed branch for a minute. Time to head back to our flotel, but we had one more view of another Jaguar female—the third Jaguar spotted by us with no crowds around. Along the bank, she briefly freshened up in the water, walked into the bushes, and settled next to a Collared Pecari head (a recent-day meal) and tended to her prey. What a way to say goodbye.
We left behind the Cuiabá River at Porto Jofre and drove to the very beginning of the Transpantaneira Road near Poconé for our last opportunities at birds and wildlife. This time we saw several species, including Hyacinth Macaw, Peach-fronted Parakeet, Red-legged Seriema, Greater Rhea, Great Horned Owl, White-fronted Woodpecker (range-restricted in Brazil), and several others as part of our final morning.
WILDLIFE SPOTTED DURING THE TRIP
The wildlife in Brazil is remarkable and specially the Pantanal gives you several chances for many animals, here is the final list of non-bird wildlife spotted during out trip:
Jaguar, Giant Anteater, Tayra, Buff-tufted Ear Marmoset, Black Capuchin, Tufted Capuchin, Black and Gold Howler Monkey, Black-tailed Marmoset, Brazilian (lowland) Tapir, Crab-eating Fox, Crab-eating Racoon, South American Coati, Red Brocket, Marsh Deer, Pampas Deer, Yacare Caiman, Yellow Anaconda, Giant River Otter, Neotropical River Otter, Capybara, Brazilian Squirrel, Red-rumped Agouti, White-eared Opposum
We are looking forward to make this trip in 2026 with Tanager!
I have been home 3 weeks and I am still under the spell of our trip with Tanager Photo Tours. The beauty of Brazil's Atlantic forest and the Pantanal are unforgettable.
This is our fourth trip with Alejo Pinto as our guide. We have traveled with him 3 times in Colombia and now to Brazil. His knowledge and skill as a guide is exceptional. He's an excellent teacher: patient, warm, funny and he helps everyone feel included.
The accommodations, food, ground transportation and flight arrangements were well organized and comfortable thanks to Lina Rueda of Tanager Tours. We recommend Tanager Photo Tours without reservation and we look forward to traveling with them again.