A Birdwatching adventure on the Colombia Andes
- Alejandro Pinto
- Jul 28
- 5 min read
In South America, there's nothing quite like the Andes. Although it's a single mountain range, in southern Colombia, the Andes split into three different branches, creating a remarkable variety of ecosystems and habitats. From lush tropical forests in the lowlands to the treetops above the páramo, this incredible diversity makes the Colombian Andes a truly unique place.
This trip was carefully designed to maximize our chances of seeing many colorful bird species, including some endemics and range-restricted birds. Throughout the journey, we visited some of the best areas along the eastern, central, and western cordilleras.
The Colombian Andes are undoubtedly a haven for biodiversity lovers and a true naturalist’s paradise.
Eastern Branch
We started at a mid-elevation site, Laguna Tabacal and its surroundings, which gave us the first nice birds of the trip. The rural area produced over 40 species in just a few hours, and we added our first endemic: Velvet-fronted Euphonia. Other birds like Rusty-breasted Antpitta, Blue-necked Tanager, Bay-headed Tanager, Bar-crested Antshrike, among others, were breathtakingly beautiful!
During the next three days in the eastern branch of the Andes, we focused on the buffer zone of Chingaza National Park. These areas are not only stunning mountain scenery but also home to many birds and mammals.
Some of the best birds recorded during those three days include: Brown-breasted Parakeet, Bronze-tailed Thornbill, Rufous-browed Conebill, Silvery-throated Spinetail, Longuemare’s Sunangel, Muisca Antpitta, Golden-fronted Redstar, Noble Snipe, Bogota Rail, Spot-flanked Gallinule, Coppery-bellied Puffleg, Blue-throated Starfrontlet, Red-crested Cotinga, Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, and Hooded Mountain Tanager.
The last aftertoon in the high plateau near Bogotá during a short vitis to a wetland area, we spotted at least 4 Noble Snipe flying above and around us. During courtship, males perform elaborate displays that can include aerial flights, chasing, and specific vocalizations. These behaviors are aimed at attracting females and establish their territory.
One of the trip’s highlights was seeing the Spectacled Bear not just once, but twice! During one of our drives back to Bogotá, these beautiful mammals crossed the road several times, giving us an incredible show and plenty of time to enjoy it.
Western Branch
Our first approach to the western Andes was above the city of Cali. We visited several spots in the renowned San Antonio Forest—Km 18—and stayed two nights at the superb Araucana Lodge, as well as with Doña Dora.
In San Antonio Forest, we visited La Florida and San Felipe, both offering amazing lodging, fantastic birdwatching, beautiful experiences, and delicious food. The highlights included sightings of Multicolored Tanager, Chestnut Wood Quail, Saffron-crowned Tanager, Golden-naped Tanager, Black-capped Tanager, Crimson-rumped Toucán, Colombian Chachalaca, Sickle-winged Guan, Red-headed Barbet, and a Common Potoo roosting in a tree. Several hummingbird species were also observed, such as White-booted Raquetail, Green Hermit, Purple-throated Woodstar, Long-tailed Sylph, and Andean Emerald. One especially memorable sighting was seeing a family of Little Tinamous (male, female, and juvenile) coming to the feeding stations—and the male doing his display!
At Doña Dora Spot, located at a lower elevation facing the Pacific Ocean, we had a very productive morning and added several new species for the trip: Crested Ant Tanager, Purplish-mantled Tanager, Rufous-throated Tanager, Silver-throated Tanager, Glistening-green Tanager, Collared Trogon, and Bay Wren. The amazing Toucan Barbet was in Mrs. Dora’s backyard, and the last addition of the day was a Rufous-gaped Hillstar, which came to catch insects in the kitchen!
Our next stops on the slopes and high elevations of the central cordillera were equally fantastic—pleasant lodging, numerous bird sightings, and fun experiences. Hacienda El Diamante was our first stop, where we had a special visit from the incredible Ruby Topaz—a definite highlight of the trip. Many other birds were spotted there, including Crested Bobwhite, Cinereous Becard, Greyish Piculet, and one of the most remarkable: a Spectacled Owl roosting silently.
Above the town of Manizales, Los Nevados National Park’s stunning mountain scenery greeted us with sightings of a female Buffy Helmetcrest during our first afternoon and a Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle soaring above the páramo.
Our full day in the páramo was unforgettable, starting with the Buffy Helmetcrest at 12,000 ft! We also saw Andean Tit Spinetail, White-chinned Thistletail, Stout-billed Cinclodes, Plumbeous Sierra Finch, and others. Around the hotel grounds, we continued to add species like Rainbow-bearded Thornbill, Golden-breasted Puffleg, Great Sapphirewing, Shining Sunbeam, Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager, and the stunning Golden-crowned Tanager.
In the area around Manizales, we also birded at Hacienda El Bosque, an outstanding site with multiple feeding stations, perfect for easy birdwatching. The scenery and food were impressive, and our best sightings included Crescent-faced Antpitta, Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan, Equatorial Antpitta, Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant, Mountain Wren, Golden-fronted Redstar, Blue-capped Tanager, Sword-billed Hummingbird, and Buff-winged Starfrontlet.
Rio Blanco Reserve was highly productive. As we left the car in the early morning, a huge flock crossed in front of us—rush hour in the forest! Species such as Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Yellow-vented Woodpecker, Masked Trogon, Black-billed Mountain Toucan, Pearled Treerunner, Blue-winged Mountain Tanager, Capped Conebill, Blue and Black Tanager, Gray-hooded Bush Tanager, and Saffron-crowned Tanager moved together through the trees.
During the morning, we also enjoyed sightings of Chestnut-crowned Antpitta, Slate-crowned Antpitta, Brown-banded Antpitta, Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush, and several hummingbirds.
We spent a couple of mornings at Tinamu Reserve, located at mid-elevation on the central cordillera and surrounded by coffee and fruit plantations. The secondary growth there is over 30 years old, and more bird species are being recorded gradually. During our visits, we saw Blue-lored Antbird, Moustached Puffbird, Plain-brown Woodcreeper, White-winged Becard, Bar-crested Antshrike, Cocoa Thrush, Golden-crowned Warbler, Thick-billed Seed Finch, Jet Antbird, and—one of the main targets—the endemic Parker’s Antbird.
Back on the western slopes, after a drive along the Cauca River further north, we reached the town of Jardín. This picturesque town is surrounded by mountains, shade-grown coffee plantations, and high Andean forests teeming with birds. We visited the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek, just five blocks from our hotel.
In the following days, we headed high into the mountains, visiting El Roble. Our local guide, Martin, took us to see Chestnut-naped Antpitta, Rufous-crowned Tody Flycatcher, Black-capped Hemispingus, Barred Becard, Sharpe’s Wren, Beryl-spangled Tanager, and Lacrimose Mountain Tanager, among many others.
During our last morning, we walked near the town, where the female Cock-of-the-Rock came to say hello, along with Andean Motmot and the endemic Red-bellied Grackle. The White-collared Swift was flying over a bridge near the river, and we also saw a couple of Red-headed Barbets as a final sighting.
Coffee Tour & Farewell
We visited a local farm to learn about Colombian coffee and its cultural importance. The farmhouse, nestled amidst the mountains, was beautiful. The hosts were welcoming, and the coffee was delicious—a perfect ending to such a fun trip in the Colombian mountains.
Summary
We recorded a total of 270 species (sighted) in the Western and Central Andes, plus over 30 species only seen in the Eastern Andes—for a total of 300 species.
Tom E. reached his 3000 bird species at the beggining of the trip! and Tom H, reached his 1800 bird species, we feel very glad to help them on their milestone!
Top Birds According to Participants:
Crescent-faced Antpitta
Buffy Helmetcrest
Ruby Topaz
Beryl-spangled Tanager
Golden-collared Manakin
Best Moments & Places:
Spectacled Bear in the eastern Andes
Little Tinamou family and male display
Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek
The mountain scenery of the Colombian Andes
Hamburger at Hacienda El Bosque
what a beautiful trip!